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Hi everyone,

as you already know, our project aims at getting the best audio quality out of our favorite 16-bit games and in an effort to provide you the best sounding soundtracks while maintaining 100% accuracy towards original hardware, today our chain underwent another small but significative step forward:

<strong>The European Mega Drive Model 1, VA4, got replaced with a Japanese Mega Drive Model 1, V1.</strong>

What's more, I believe that this MD was hardly used at all as all the components inside were in pristine condition and, as such, we can move another tiny step towards complete accuracy as I won't need to change capacitors on this one, retaining the original ones.

Audio quality wise, the sound coming out of the VA1 (and VA0 and VA2 for that matter) is cleaner and with a harder hitting bass, although less muffled. This, on the first listen, might mislead the listener into thinking that there's less bass than our previous MD: this is not true, it's simply a cleaner and more controlled bass which I'm sure you'll all come to love.

Anyway, life is not a bowl of cherries: the Japanese VA0, VA1 and VA2 were plagued with a design error in the amplifier section: the gain is too high (well, actually the problem is that the Reference Voltage -Vref- is too high) and due to this loud games might sound a bit distorted. This becomes quite evident in tracks that have a predominant bass line such as Boss 1 in Sonic 3D.

While a bit of background noise/hiss is tolerable, distortion is not welcome in our prestigious audiophile family, and as such I'll make a small mod to lower the reference voltage thus fixing the distortion problem (I just need to put a bigger resistor, that's pretty much it, no big deal).

This also mean that tomorrow I won't be able to record a new release which will get shifted to the next week.

Also, I do believe this is the right moment to talk about the Remasters I wanted to do: our recording chain underwent a lot of changes and we've got really far since the first release, Sonic 2.

At this point I feel the urge to start doing these remasters as the quality have changed quite a bit and I was thinking of modifying our release schedule this way:

Most voted request -> Oldest request -> Most voted -> Oldest -> Remaster -> Most voted -> etc...

Every two cycles I'll put a remaster in so that requests will also have priority.

Oh, and from now on, if you want you can also request a Remaster!

Just put it this way in the request thread:

[REMASTER] Game name

so I'll immediately recognize it and when the time comes to release a remaster, I'll take the most voted one.

And that's pretty much it, maybe I'll post some photos of the new Mega Drive later and update our Equipment page!

Stay tuned!!
Great aquisition. I'm eager to listen to one of those remasters to compare with regular ones.

P.D.: You may want to post 1 or 2 of your favourite songs instead of a full release. Just for the teaseSmile
I'm still tinkering with it, making sure all the important connections are properly insulated and grounded to avoid unwanted noise.

That's a great idea though, I'll make sure to record a couple of tracks when I've got all set up.
I'll give you a small job. Do it when you tinker with your consoles, no hurries.

I looked for info about the output circuit of MD. I've found schematics and component values of Genesis models and older SMD, but not of V1 (well, I'm not sure).

I'm interested in the component values on the filter from the YM to the CXA, and the filter in the output of the CXA to the headphone. It would be nice to compare the filters in the different models.
the VA0 and VA1 (and, I believe the VA2) model 1 japanese MD have a low pass filter made with a resistance and a cap with values 47KΩ and 1000pF.

This causes a lot of problems like saturated and scratchy sound because the signal comes in too strong.

The fix is simple and is to replace resistance and cap with values 10KΩ and 4700pF and then replace the resistor which manages the volume with a 18KΩ one.

This filters the band at 3386Hz.

Newer revisions have a 5600pF capacitor instead which makes the filter act at 2842Hz.

Unfortunately those SMD components do not have numbers on them, as such you have to look for them.

Please refer to this thread:
That post is nice, thanks!

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